Hmm…19VDC x 4.74 amps = 90 Watts, not 120 Watts…oh well
However, when I click on the link to “Available at the WD Online store”, I get a web page that states:
“Product data is unavailable. Please accept our apologies for this inconvenience.”
OK, then where can I buy this power supply?
Note: I looked at the one that came with my DL4100. It is made by APD (Asian Power Devices) and is a model DA-90F19. Guess I will go search for that model then. I want to have redundant power supplies.
BTW, it’s specs are the same = 19VDC @ up to 4.74 amps.
If your unit is still under warranty then WD Support is able to provide you with a replacement power adapter (If available). You can contact WD Support over the phone or via E-mail.
My original power supply adapter works just fine. I want another one to plug into the other power supply port so i can have redundant power supplies. It’s one the features touted for this unit but pretty worthless if AC adapters are unavailable.
The WD power adapter and connector are very common power type.
It would be nice to know the reason for changing from 4 amp supply to 6 amps. (90 to 120 watts).
I did not have time to learn why my original 90 watt was giving the power error/lock up when coming out of sleep mode after going from two red 2 TB driver to four red 4 TB drives. I just picked up a 120 watt laptop computer adapter at a local computer store.
The 120 watts unit fixed my power problem: no idea if it was a bad 90 watt unit or I needed more power.
I would guess that WD decided the 90W PS was under powering the unit, so they switched to 120W. Always better to have extra headroom when it comes to power supplies, so it is a non-issue that the PS is heftier…
Possibly more reliable if not operating at capacity? Runs cooler? If all four drives are spun-up at the same time the power used is about 85 watts using WD red drives. Settles at 32 watts. On standby about 14 watts. (On a 240 volt supply)
Excellent!f Also at a far better price then what was offered on the WD store.
This is the one problem with everything electronic. Capacitors wear out over time. Stuff that stays on after a long time can be prone to having capacitors that will work and of there is a power-cut then it won’t work.
With PSU’s that can be opened and that have recently failed a trick I use to test is to get a hair-drier, put on full heat and warm up all the electronics on the PCB until quite warm, Usually once warmed up, apply power and it works again until the next time it’s turned off.
