Please help.. i need a logic board

Clone your drive using multipass cloning software such as dd_rescue. Dd_rescue understands how to skip over bad patches in the media. It can also clone a drive in reverse.

http://www.garloff.de/kurt/linux/ddrescue/

Ok it looks like there be some really really good advice here. I’m at wits end…

I Have a:

1TB

MDL:  WD10EAVS-00D7B1

WWN:  50014EE2AD83CD59

date:  24 may 2009

DCM:  DBNNNT2MFB

LBA:  1953525168

After 3mo. of use it failed in use uploading photos to the internet.

USB would recognize but would not show drive letter.  After exhausting all resorts for recovery by connecting to other external cases and internally to other computers I finally sent it to a company to recover the data.  They said it was the board. After alot of run around they said it had a bad head #5, then the said it was in Linux file format(???) I use windows btw and they couldnt recover it cuz I didn’t format it to NTFS. bottom line they sent the drive back to me unrepaired or recovered.  I noticed that 2 diodes D3 and D4 are both jumpered now (not pretty either).  Disk manager sees it but wont initialize.  Please help…my entire family’s exsistance is on that drive :frowning:

http://i237.photobucket.com/albums/ff280/burnrose/photo-5.jpg

http://i237.photobucket.com/albums/ff280/burnrose/photo-7.jpg

http://i237.photobucket.com/albums/ff280/burnrose/photo-6.jpg

http://i237.photobucket.com/albums/ff280/burnrose/photo-8.jpg

Please

BurnRose

BurnRose, may I ask which company did this work for you?

The reason I ask is that, although the soldering job looks excellent, the two wires are now creating short circuits across both the +5V and +12V supplies. In other words, the company you sent it to has created additional problems for you. :frowning:

For a start, resistors R67 and R64 are now probably testing open circuit, whereas in fact they should have tested as zero ohm links.

To undo the new damage, you will need to remove the wire links from each diode, and then replace R67 and R64 with their own wire links or 2A picofuses. For continued overvoltage protection, you can replace diodes D3 and D4 with SMAJ5.0A and SMBJ12A, respectively. These are available from Farnell, Mouser, Digikey. The polarity stripe on each diode should line up with the bar on the diode symbol on the PCB.

Be aware that the Marvell chip (big “M”) stores drive specific calibration data.These “adaptive” data need to be transferred from patient to donor. This means that you cannot easily swap boards.

BTW, Disk Management is now detecting the USB-SATA bridge chip in your USB enclosure, not your drive.

You can see this with Microsoft’s UVCView utility:
http://www.users.on.net/~fzabkar/USB_IDs/UVCView.x86.exe

I was hoping you would answer! The company was OneWorld Data Recovery in Canada. I believe after all said and done they just want the diagnostic fees. Because everything from that point on with their word was BS. And the jumpers are horribly done. I am a professional electronics technician, so I am comfortable with circuitry. I really appreciate your knowledge with these boards and I wish I found you earlier (pre OneWorld Data). I order from digikey and mouser all the time so I will place the order in the morning for the replacement diodes and jumper the resistors. I will keep you informed of my progress. Truly thank you for your input! And let me know if anything else comes to mind.

BurnRose, my knowledge of hard drive boards is only of a very general nature. Although I have 30 years of component level electronics experience, I have no specific hands-on experience with modern HDs. :frowning:

That said, the area of interest on the PCB, ie protection diodes and fusible resistors, is quite basic. I can’t understand how a “data recovery” company could make such an obvious mistake.

As for the original fault, if one or more of the diodes were shorted, then it may be an idea to test the loads on each of the onboard supplies for shorts as well. That involves measuring the resistances between ground and each of the Inductors (L1, L2, L3) below the SMOOTH motor controller.

Good luck.

BTW, if you wish to replace the reistors with 2 amp smt fuses, then see the following datasheet:

Littelfuse Surface Mount Fuses, N = 2A:
http://www.farnell.com/datasheets/48294.pdf

No good…

I removed the diode links.  I also removed R64 & R67 and replaced them with links.  Still recognizes the sata bridge but disk manager will not alllow option to initialize. If I select offline it says there is an I/O error, just as before. any other advice?

p.s just ran a test with parted magic, test showed:   “servo/seek failure”

also spin-up time:  “pre-failure”

UPDATE: reinstalled into external case and now gives me the option to initialize, but gives an error “cyclic redundancy check” and I can hear the drive “click click …click click etc…”

AIUI, clicking is symptomatic of weak heads or media faults. ISTM that the problem is inside the HDA. :frowning:

There may be a slim chance that the problem is due to oxidised contacts at the preamp connection points on the underside of the PCB. If so, then these can be cleaned up with a soft white pencil eraser. Otherwise I think your drive is a candidate for professional data recovery. :frowning:

Ya I already tried that :frowning:

Is there a company that can remove the internal disks to clone the information on them at least partially?  There has to be…

Im not sure if some of this thread applies to my issue. I purchased a 500gb MyBook (with usb/firewire/esata) about a year an half ago, i place a lot of backup files on it and have not used it for almost a year now. I switched it on today and the the front lights constantly flashed on and off and the laptop did not detect it (nor did it make much of a sound). I managed to carefully take the hard drive out of the casing and place it into a sata dock, now my computer with detect the dock but the drive remains silent.

The drive is WD5000AVVS. It never had any problems before. I just need to access the data for recovery so a temp fix would be good…btw im from UK and thanks in advance for any help recieved.

Thanks,

James

When you say, “nor did it make much of a sound”, does it make any sound at all? Any vibration? Buzzing? Does the motor sound like it is trying to start?

Sorry i was typing as if i was speaking, it makes no noise at all. Please help.

James

Can you upload a detailed photo of the component side of the PCB to a file sharing site?

Sir…

I bought this 1TB My Book Essential about three months back… wrote about 400GB of data…

Last week the drive hung while writing and since then it is not being detected by any of my computers… when I power it on… I feel the initial vibration and then it turns all quiet…

What can be possibly done to recover the data… even if it is a temporary fix… I can get a new drive of the same model to replace any components if necessary… please help…

P/N        WDBAAF0010HBK

Model    WDBAAF0010HBK-SESN

hi everyone! i’m hoping somebody could help me here… i have this WD 500GB HDD SE16 and it stopped working yesterday. the disk doesn’t spin when turned on. i removed the logic board and didn’t see any burned diodes. i noticed that the chip with a big M turns really HOT. is this normal or is this the cause of my HDD’s failure? what can i do with this? thank you!!! :wink:

I’ll upload a detailed photo of the PCB asap, unfortunately my camera is broken so may take a week or two but thanks for all your help :slight_smile:

I bought a new 1TB My Book Essential of the same model… switched the new logic board to the old drive… but still the same problem persists… I took the drive to a data recovery centre… they also tried switching the boards… but in that case the drive got detected as 2TB!! But no files were found…

Like you said in one of the previous solutions… should I try switching the EEPROM and see if it works… ?

The link below gives a view of the logic  board of the damaged drive…

http://s758.photobucket.com/albums/xx230/dibeyes/?action=view&current=DSC03033.jpg

Dibyendu, I’m not certain, but ISTM that the problem with your drive is most likely internal to the HDA. Anyway, if you wish to replace your board, then you will need to transfer the EEPROM (U12, above Marvell MCU).

Good luck.

Thanks Franc,

But is the 8-pin U12 above the chip with a big M all that I have to replace?

Yes, just transfer the EEPROM.