Hi, I’ve read a little here about doing this. In my stupidity I didn’t even know you could ruin a drive by putting in a different power cable. Learnt my lesson!
I’m wanting to see if I can fix this problem, as the drive just flashes the white light, which stops when a firewire cable is plugged into my MAC, but it still doesn’t detect the drive.
I’ve read that it can maybe be fixed by doing something to the insides.
I’ve taken the hardrive apart and taken a couple of photos of the board. I couldn’t smell any burning/whether it had blown
on the board.
If anyone can help me potentially fix this, that would be great.
The pics aren’t released yet. The only one who can really help is fzabkar. Check out some of his posts. You’re not the only one whos’s done this. He has got people going after a disaster. You can try sending him a PM.
Your photos are of the USB-SATA-Firewire bridge board. Instead, the usual victim of an overvoltage is the drive’s own PCB.
Anyway I would start by testing the voltages at the SATA power connector on the bridge board, while the HD is disconnected. Measure the voltage between +5V and ground, and between +12V and ground.
If the supplies are missing, then measure the resistances of inductor L20 and diode D4 near the DC power socket. Do this in the absence of power.
If both the +5V and +12V supplies are present at the SATA connector, then the problem must be at the drive end.
In this case remove the PCB from the drive and upload a photo of the component side. A typical WD drive will have TVS diodes at locations D3 and D4, and zero-ohm resistors at R64 and R67. Measure the resistances of each component.
Let’s see a photo of the HDD’s PCB before you plug it into your desktop. In fact, if you can tell us the model number on the drive’s label, or the “2061-nnnnn” number on the PCB, then Google should find a suitable photo for us.
If either of the drive’s protection diodes are shorted, then the power supply won’t start. The fan will kick once, and then the PSU will shut down.
In most cases the fix is as simple as removing the shorted diode. Just snip its pins with flush cutters (or fingernail clippers ?) and you should be good to go.
The most likely culprit in your case is the 12V TVS diode (D4) nearest the bottom left corner. You will probably find that it is shorted, in which case the simple solution is to remove it with flush cutters. The drive will work without it, but it will no longer have overvoltage protection on the +12V input.
You may also find that zero-ohm resistor R64 measures open circuit, in which case the solution is to flow a blob of solder over it, or replace it with a wire link.
You can replace D4 with an SMBJ12A from Farnell, Mouser, Digikey.
both images kinda look the same to me, but I don’t know much about it. I’ll remove that diode and see if that makes a difference. if not I think I’ll just try and put it into a desktop computer cause this is all way over my head! If I take out that diode do I need to replace it before connecting it to the desktop computer. Will it work okay anyway if I take it out and then put it back?
Simply remove the diode. The drive will work without it, but you must not overvolt the drive again. Removing the diode also removes the overvoltage protection on the +12V input.
BTW, if the diode is shorted, then there is no reason to keep it, except as a reminder of what not to do.
sorry to be stupid but cld u let me know, or if poss, highlight the diode that im meant to take out, as Im not sure which one you mean. Have a look there doesnt seem to be anything that can actually be removed, or thats loose! I don’t want to break anything.
Sorry for the confusion. Do you mean either one of these highlighted in either photos? As initially I thought you meant what was on the back of the actual drive. Sorry not 100% sure what part/side of the board you’re referring too. does the diode have any text written beside it?
