So, I fired the logic board on my WD3200SB-01KMA0. I was victim of the upside-down molex connector. I shouldn’t compute past 1.
Anywho, I got an advanced replacement, hoping I could swap the boards and salvage the data. Problem is, I was sent an WD3200YB, which is Sata, rather than IDE. Called WD up, and was upgraded to level two support. The guy told me, chances are, I’ll NEVER get a truly identical drive anyways. He instructed me to check out the forums for some cool and crazy (yet unnamed) data recovery methods. So here I am. Now with two drives, one dead, one alive, I must find a way to recover my family photos.
My best idea, do it yourself idea that is, is to fork out 190CAD to get the same WD3200SB-01KMA0 on FleaBay, then pray the chip works.
I would also perfer nobody tells me to pay a professional; I’m just one of those people… You know. Those ones.
I work at a computer servicing company so I do have access to some cool tools, and PILES of old harddrives to toy with. So, you know, please pass on your endless knowledge, and help nudge me in the right direction.
In all seriousness though, can you see what is “fried” on the circuit board? Obviously sending 12v into things designed for 5v isn’t too good but maybe its a “simple to replace” thing like a cap, resistor or diode. I know next to nothing about the layout, pinout, or engineering in a drive controller board but someone here might. I’d warrant that in situations like this there is a component that is the one that generally dies first or is the weak link and might be replaced with some good desoldering and resoldering. Any WD engineers wanna step up to the plate
It sounds like you may a shorted TVS (transient voltage suppression) diode on the 5V input. There will usually be a zero-ohm resistor right beside it. This resistor normally goes open like a fuse. Hopefully the diode will have contained the damage, in which case you can simply snip it out with side cutters, and then replace the resistor with a wire link. The drive will work OK without the diode, but it will no longer have any overvoltage protection on the affected supply. Therefore be absolutely certain that your PSU is OK.
If you need help in identifying the components, upload a detailed photo to a file sharing service.
My notes, and the following articles, may also help:
So I got a board on eBay. All the numbers match, except the ones on the EEPROM, the ram, and the thing by marvell in the midle. Anyone know where I can get firmware? Should work, no?
So I got a board on eBay. All the numbers match, except the ones on the EEPROM, the ram, and the thing by marvell in the midle. Anyone know where I can get firmware? Should work, no?
On the right, my dead drive and chip, on the left, a photo of my 200$ donor drive, which I thought would work as it had identical chip numbers (see first link).
AIUI, the RE drive is a RAID-able version of the Caviar SE, ie its firmware is tuned for TLER. The bulk of this firmware is stored on he platters in a reserved System Area. There is some basic bootstrap code in the Marvell MCU, and some additional code in the 8-pin serial EEPROM at U12. The EEPROM also contains unique, drive specific “adaptive” data.
That said, I suspect that any differences will be taken care of when you transfer the U12 chip, or its contents, from patient to donor. I’m not completely certain, however, because I don’t know if any differences in the MCU code are significant. I suspect not.
As for the numbers on the chips, the part numbers for the MCU, RAM, and motor controller are 88i6540-LFH1, HY57V641620ETP-6, and L6283, respectively. This means that they are identical. Numbers such as 549 and 551, 0601 and 0552, and 550 and 549, are YWW (Year / Week) date codes. For example, 549 indicates that the IC was manufactured during week 49 of 2005.
Other markings such as KORea and TaiWan are the countries of manufacture (MYS = MalaYSia ?).
The only thing that bothers me is the meaning of the GM12871B.1 and GM30601A.2 markings on the MCU. Perhaps they relate to the internal microcode???
So basically what you’re saying is, get a heat gun and a small screwdriver, —gently— pop off the MCUs and swap them. Now, as you may see, on the right hand side the EEPROM is propped open and cracked. How screwed am I, exactly, or will it work with just the MCU?
Also, is transferring the ram and other junk important?
My first step would be to transfer the EEPROM chip at U12. Leave the MCU as is. Just be very careful, as damage to U12 will make data recovery much harder, and much more expensive.
Oh my gosh you freaking genius! I thought it was the “smooth” thing. So, tommorow when I’m all fresh and such, can I break out my heat gun and move those things from a board to the other?
Those things being that 8 pin thing next to the U12 marking and the big thing with the M. Just to make things extremely clear for myself.
One last thing, I was saying heat gun (heat it up, pop it off, place it, heat it up) but, is there a better, easier way to do stuff like this? I was thinking of practicing on some old modems or sound cards just to see if I can do this properly, or maybe checking out youtube, but I want to know what you think.
Also, if it’s alright with you, I would like to pay for/ship you a new WD drive when we get this done. You deserve it, pal.
I would advise that you move U12, then try the drive. I’m hoping that will do the trick. Moving Big “M” is a last resort, and in any case you should confer with a professional. Furthermore, the burnt components form part a DC-DC converter. One of the DC-DC converters generates the 1.2V Vcore supply for the MCU, while another may generate the Vio supply. This means that the MCU could possibly have been damaged by a failure in Vcore or Vio. I don’t yet know enough to provide specific details.
Alright, tommorow I’ll be refreshed, and test it out. If I can get it to spin up and detect in windows, but not recognize the data layout, I may just need to run a basic recovery tool to get my files back.
Scrath that. I think I’m $#?&#!&. I just tried to heat up my eeprom solder points witha bbq lighter and pow some ■■■■ is peeling off the top. Oh &$%*!!!
What do I do?! I thoguht silicon only melted at 1400 celcius!
