1080i Output Always?

WD Legacy Products WD TV Live & Live Plus
1

The only HD resolution that my TV accepts as input is 1080i. It will not accept a 720p or 1080p input.

Can I set the WD Live TV Plus to always output a 1080i signal to my TV regardless of the format of the programming/file?

Also, can I do that over either the HDMI or Component output?

2

Yes, the WD Live TV Plus has the ability to manually set the video output resolution/frequency and it does convert the input resolution/frequency of the video to output at the resolution/frequency that you select. However, the box has a problem in that it does not remember the resolution when you power it off and on again. When you power it on, it frequently comes up set at the wrong resolution. There is HDMI handshaking that goes on between your TV and the WD box when you turn it on. Depending on your TV, the auto negotiation may work correctly, or it might not.

In my case, I manually set the WD box for 1080i 60Hz, however it frequently powers up set at 720p which my TV does not support. I have been posting about this problem for over 9 months now and finally, only last week, someone on the WD staff posted that this issue of not remembering the resolution when you power it off and on will be fixed in the next release.

I sincerely hope that this issue will be fixed because it has caused numerous problems for a lot of users of the WD boxes.

3

So, if that does happen, how do you change the resolution back to to 1080i if the screen is all screwed up because it’s sending 720p to the TV?

4

For me, it is a real pain in the A. I also have the composite video output of the box connected to an unused input on my TV. I switch to the composite output in order to see the menu, then I use the WD setup to set the video output back to 1080i 60hz, then I switch the TV back to the HDMI output of the WD box. (I have an older Panasonic Plasma TV that uses a DVI input, and it does not support 720p).

Sometimes, I have all of the inputs of my TV in use with other devices, then it is even worse because I have to swap cables at the back of my TV between composite and HDMI (DVI).

5

So what are my odds that it’ll stay 1080i for me?

I have an older Panasonic RPTV with an HDMI input.  I could also use a component input if that improves things.

I just ordered one from Staples, so I guess I’ll see what happens tomorrow.

6

As I said, it is hit or miss. There is no good way to tell. Just try it and hope that you are lucky.

Hopefully, it will be fixed in the next release, but I as I said this has been going on for over 9 months now, so I have learned not to get my hopes up too high that it will be fixed. I have been on this board for a long time and last week was the first time that anyone from WD has ever acknowleged this issue, so there is some hope that it will be fixed.

7

It comes with a Component cable in the box?  Is this still potentially a problem if I use the Component cable or does the same “bug” exist?

8

The HDMI handshaking issue is not necessarily the fault of the WDTV Live. I have made a number of posts on this forum regarding HDMI handshaking. I would advise you to visit a digital TV forum. The HDMI handshaking issue has been thoroughly discussed on those forums. I have never had an issue with my Samsung Plasma TV. Depending on the digital TV there may be a flash ROM upgrade on the forum or a link to the manufacturer. If there is a flash ROM upgrade for your digital TV, I would advise you heed the manufacturer’s advice and to upgrade. Samsung Australia upgraded the Samsung Plasma TV flash ROM via the free to air network.

9

thepanoguy wrote:
The HDMI handshaking issue is not necessarily the fault of the WDTV Live…

That may be true, but that is not what I was complaining about! The fact that the WD box does not remember the video settings when it is powered off and on again is the fault of the WD box. When the user sets the video resolution and frequency manually, there is no reason why the box has to auto negotiate.

10

Scandy,

So if what you are saying is true, that the box resets the resolution every time it’s powered off, wouldn’t that mean that a Component connection would be even worse?

With HDMI, at least you have a shot at it auto-negotiating properly.  With Component, you don’t get that.  If I use Component, I have no shot of getting it to output 1080i after the box powers off?

Also, what does powering the box off mean?  Can I just leave the box always on as a possible solution?

11

Ok.  So I got my unit today.

Don’t have my wifi adapter, so I haven’t actually tested playing anything, but here’s what I see in my limited testing.

I set the Live Plus to 1080i component 60Hz, YUV color.  If I power it off and then back on, the screen is messed up while the box is booting up, but just before the menu comes up, the screen blanks for a couple of seconds and then it the menu comes up normally.

If I plug in HDMI and set it to 1080i 60Hz, I get the exact same results.

In either case, when I go into the menu to look at the setting, it’s unchanged from what it was before power off.

For the guy above that says it’s not remembering the setting, are you sure you let it boot up all the way to the menu?  At first, I was disappointed that when I turned it back on it wasn’t working.  It took me a bunch of tries before I waited until the menu came up and figured out it was ok then.  Sounds like you’ve been around here a while, so I’m sure you know that, but figured I’d put it out there.

Since my TV only has 1 HDMI port, I think I’ll just leave the Live Plus in via Component.  Should be just as good video quality as the HDMI connection and I don’t have to fiddle with an HDMI switcher.

I powered off and on a few times, so I think I’m ok, but I’ll test it a little more in the morning.

So far, very happy.

Now, looking forward to playing some content.

Hopefully, no issue with video outputting through component to my TV and audio via optical to my receiver at the same time.

12

Lex, check and see what firmware version you have.  New out-of-box, it may be an older revision than the ones that are giving us grief.   I wouldn’t be surprised if you are running v 1.03.xxx.  Most recent version is 1.05.04.

13

Yes, it’s 1.03.29b.  Should I not upgrade then?  Was the bug you speak about introduced after that?  What main features/bug fixes am I missing if I don’t upgrade?  What are the odds that if I do upgrade, it won’t work the same way it does right now?

Wow, tough decision.

14

I found the changelog file that lists the changes, by update. There way too much there to not update. What are the chances upgrading breaks what I currently have worked a far as resolution settings?

15

Well, I couldn’t help myself and went ahead and did it (no way I was ever going to hold myself off from upgrading and wondering).

It looks like, at least on the component connection, that after the upgrade, my screen is still coming up fine once it gets to the menu.

Glad I went ahead and did that!

16

You may find that other things break that either were supposed to be fixed or show up as new bugs.  If it works for you, great.  Many, including myself, have downgraded to 1.03.29 or .49.  Didn’t need all the network apps, network share stutter issues, etc…

17

Not remembering the video settings when powered off is a problem that affects some people and not others. It is definitely worse for hdmi connections when the TV does not do the proper handshaking with the WD box. For me, it is inconsistent. About half the time the box powers up correctly set at 1080i 60Hz and RGB Low. The other half of the time it comes up set at 720p and either RGB High or YCrBr. Sometimes, it will work correctly for several days in a row, then it won’t work for several days in a row. Many others on this forum have had the same problem and have posted about it.

I have never used the composite output of the WD box so I do not have any first hand experiences to talk about.

18

Intersting stuff.  I’m using Component connection for main viewing.  I kept the non-HD composite connection plugged in just in case I get "locked out’ of the Component connection with the wrong resolution.

I’ll keep an eye on things.  So far, every time I power up, it looks all messed up while it’s booting and then it blanks and comes on perfectly when I get to the menu.

In this case, I prefer the Component to HDMI anyhow, so this seems to be all well here for me.

If it stops working, I’ll post.

I’m sure I’ll be around here lots more as well once I get my network adapter and start using it more.

So far all I’ve done is put a 720p mkv on a local HD and connected it and it played perfectly with the DTS audio routing to the receiver just as it shoud.